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Heat and Drought Stress

Summer decline of tall fescue when heat and dry weather outrun the roots, showing as footprints, gray-blue color, wilting and eventually brown dormant turf.

What it looks like

The first sign is footprinting: the grass does not spring back after you walk on it and your tracks stay visible. Then the blades roll or fold, take on a dull gray-blue cast, and the lawn thins and turns straw-brown in the hottest, driest or most exposed areas first (slopes, south sides, along driveways and sidewalks, under trees competing for water). Dormant fescue is tan but the crowns at the soil line are still alive and firm; dead fescue pulls up easily and the crowns are brown and dry.

Often mistaken for: Brown patch, white grubs, irrigation coverage gaps, or chinch bugs

When it shows up in the Triangle

June through early September in the Triangle, peaking during July and August when nights stay above 70°F. Tall fescue is a cool-season grass and slows its growth in this heat no matter how much you water. It recovers with cooler nights in September.

Where you’ll see it

Every tall fescue lawn in the Piedmont to some degree, and worst on red clay that has been compacted, on slopes and on lawns mowed short or fed with nitrogen in summer.

What you can do

  • Water deeply and infrequently: about 1 inch per week in one or two sessions, early in the morning, not every evening
  • Mow tall fescue at 3.5 to 4 inches in summer and never take more than a third of the blade at once
  • Keep mower blades sharp so cuts heal quickly
  • Skip nitrogen fertilizer on fescue from May through August; feed it in fall
  • If you choose to let the lawn go dormant, give it about a half inch of water every two to three weeks to keep the crowns alive
  • Stay off the lawn when it is wilted, and plan on aeration and overseeding in September to fill in what was lost
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